La Carbonera vs. Cocora Valley: Who Wins?
Everyone’s heard of the Valle de Cocora – but have you ever heard of La Carbonera?
Tucked deep in Colombia’s cloud forests near Salento, La Carbonera (also known as Tochecito) is a hidden gem that most tourists miss. It’s home to the world’s densest forest of wax palms. With over 6000 wax palms and barely a human in sight, this remote valley offers a rare, wild version of Colombia that feels straight out of a dream.
Whether you’re a mountain biking enthusiast or a hiker, La Carbonera delivers an experience Valle de Cocora can’t match – and we’re here to show you why.
In our La Carbonera travel guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know: how to get there, what to do, where to stay, and whether it’s worth visiting compared to its more famous neighbour. Spoiler: it is.
La Carbonera, also known as Tochecito, is a remote valley in Colombia's Tolima department, renowned for housing the world's densest forest of wax palms (Ceroxylon quindiuense), Colombia's national tree. This area is home to approximately 80% of the global population of these huge palms, which can reach heights of up to 60 meters (almost 200 ft!) and live for over 200 years.
Absolutely! La Carbonera is the place for you if you like nature and getting off the beaten path. It’s also the spot in Salento to go mountain biking!
The easiest base to visit La Carbonera is Salento.
The distance is only 30 km (18 mi) but the drive on the dirt track takes around 3 hours.
It’s great for a social vibe and optional activities. The location is central and the staff is lovely!
By the way: The Viajero in Salento is not a party hostel.
The Carbonera is not accessible by public transport taxi.
If you don’t have your own offroad capable vehicle, the easiest way to get there is to take an organised tour.
You have three main tour options to visit La Carbonera
We chose mountain biking.
La Carbonera No. of Palm Trees |
Valle de Cocora No. of Palm Trees |
Around 6.000 wax palms |
Around 600 wax palms |
La Carbonera Altitude |
Valle de Cocora Altitude |
Between 2300 and 3300 m |
Between 1800 and 2400 m |
La Carbonera Accessibility |
Valle de Cocora Accessibility |
Currently, only by guided tour or if you have your own offroad vehicle. |
Jeeps leave every hour from the main square in Salento starting at 6:30 am. The round trip costs 11000 COP. |
La Carbonera Touristyness |
Valle de Cocora Touristyness |
Only a couple of dozen tourists per day. |
1000s of tourists every day. |
La Carbonera Infrastructure |
Valle de Cocora Infrastructure |
Very little infrastructure. We only saw the restaurant we had breakfast in and no shops. |
Many restaurants and shops. Loads of picture spots. |
La Carbonera Budget |
Valle de Cocora Budget |
Our mountainbike tour cost around 60$ |
The jeep and entrance fees are around 10$ |
La Carbonera Things to Do |
Valle de Cocora Things to Do |
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Who Should Choose La Carbonera |
Who Should Choose Valle de Cocora |
La Carbonera is best for:
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Valle de Cocora is best for:
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If you want comfort, convenience, and Instagram spots go to Valle de Cocora.
If you want adventure and nature head to La Carbonera – we even spotted a condor!
If you have the time to do both, do both 😉
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