Travel guide to backpacking Lake Atitlan.
We are beach people. To be honest, we didn’t find the thought of visiting a high-altitude lake especially appealing. After all, Lake Atitlan sits at an altitude of around 1500 m or 5000 ft so it’s not exactly a tropical paradise. We’re thrilled that we still gave it a try.
The Mayans believed Lake Atitlan was a sacred place of deep spiritual significance. We’re not spiritual people but the lake definitely cast a spell over us.
Surrounded by three volcanoes, it’s the perfect blend of hiking opportunities, water activities, yoga, and backpacker vibes.
Lake Atitlan is absolutely worth a visit. We would include it even in the shortest of Guatemala itineraries. It is surrounded by 11 villages so there’s something for everyone – whether you are looking for backpacker fun, nature activities, or spiritual retreats.
There are 11 towns on Lake Atitlan but 4 of them have the biggest significance for travellers:
The other Lake Atitlan villages are:
The closest airport to Lake Atitlan is Guatemala City Airport. Most people do not only visit Lake Atitlan but include it in a longer Guatemala itinerary. Hence the lake is well connected to other Guatemalan destinations by shuttle. The two main transportation hubs around the lake are Panajachel and San Pedro.
Here’s our Guatemala itinerary including Lake Atitlan:
The main mode of getting around Lake Atitlan is by boat. There is no road which fully circles the lake and many towns are not connected to any road at all.
There are affordable shared boats between the main points of interest. There’s no fixed Lake Atitlan boat schedule but boats run during the daylight hours and will leave every 15 to 30 minutes (or when they are full).
If you want to travel in the dark, you will have to negotiate a private boat which will cost you a lot.
The longest possible trip from Panajachel to San Pedro takes around 1 hour.
There is no fixed pricing. Expect to pay between 10 – 30Q per ride depending on the trip. The boats are cash only so better bring some small change. You pay as you get off the boat – not outside of the dock – and you do not buy a return ticket. You can ask for the price before you hop on the boat to be sure.
There is at least one dock in every town around the lake. The system might seem confusing but people will show you the right direction. You can also flag down boats at the dock of lakeside hotels.
Here are the main routes:
The towns themselves are walkable. You can also walk between some towns like San Pedro and San Juan.
A scenic way to travel between Santa Cruz, Jaibalito, Tzununa, and San Marcos is hiking the Lower Mayan Trail.
Tuk-tuks are a convenient mode of transport to travel inside of towns or in between neighbouring towns which are connected by road (San Pedro, San Juan, Tzununa, San Marcos).
Prices vary from 5-20Q – make sure to negotiate and ask if the price is per person.
Camionetes or pickup trucks run between Panajachel, Santa Catarina Palopo, and San Antonio Palopo.
Chicken buses connect local destinations like Panajachel, Santiago, or Xela.
The best places to stay in Lake Atitlan are
We splurged and stayed at LA VILLA by luxury Attilan. It is super close to the dock in San Pedro but still very quiet. And it comes with a Jacuzzi and a lake view pool. What more is there to say?
Amigos is a more budget-friendly alternative. Friends of ours stayed there and can fully recommend it – especially the lake views.
We stayed at Hospedaje El Viajero. The location was central and close to the bus stop as well as the dock. There’s free water, tea, and coffee which you can drink in the relaxing backyard.
Alternatively, the only Selina on Lake Atitlan is in Panajachel. Selina hostels are a solid choice all around Central America.
Two of the best hostels on Lake Atitlan are located in Santa Cruz:
La Iguana Perdida is a super communal space. There’s a family dinner every evening, yoga lessons, and a sauna. The volcano views are among the best on the whole lake. It’s also where the only dive base on the lake is located.
Free Cerveza Lake Atitlan is a glamping spot with amazing volcano views. As the name indicates, there’s free beer every evening! We’ve heard it described as a summer camp for adults. Disclaimer: We wanted to go but it sells out quickly and we were not fast enough.
Eagle's Retreats is the yoga place on Lake Atitlan. We didn’t spend the night but we visited for a day as it is affiliated with Eagle’s Nest who offer public yoga classes with the best view ever. Eagle's Retreats is perched on the hill which makes the way there tough but the views even more rewarding. The accommodation is all-inclusive with 3 meals per day, yoga classes, and a sauna.
Casa AHAU is a more budget-friendly alternative. It’s also perched up the hill for great views. There’s even a yoga terrace!
The honest answer to the question is Lake Atitlan safe to swim in is: probably. Yes, it is pretty contaminated because untreated wastewater is channelled into the lake.
Still, many towns and hotels have swimming areas and swimming in Lake Atitlan is generally considered safe. Many locals and tourists alike enter the water on a regular basis.
We did swim in Lake Atitlan and survived without any belly aches or rashes – and we had our heads underwater. We wouldn’t recommend swallowing large quantities of water. If you want to be extra safe, avoid bathing in populated areas.
There are several great hikes around Lake Atitlan:
Of course, getting out on the water is one of the best things to do! If you stay in Santa Cruz, your accommodation will probably rent out kayaks. If you stay in San Pedro, San Marcos, or Panajachel, you can join a kayak tour.
All the towns around Lake Atitlan have a unique vibe and it’s fun and easy to visit a couple of them – if you do it by boat, the boat ride in itself is a fun activity.
How about visiting
The Mayans called Lake Atitlan the navel of the world and believed it was a sacred place of deep spiritual significance.
Nowadays, many travellers still believe in the spirituality of the lake and there are many activities geared towards it.
San Marcos is the spiritual hub of the lake. Eagle’s Nest in San Marcos is probably the best place for Lake Atitlan yoga because the views from the yoga deck are breathtaking!
If you look around, you can also find other activities like cacao ceremonies or even participate in a Mayan ceremony!
Guatemala is a great country for coffee lovers and Lake Atitlan is no exception. If you want more than just sitting in one of the many lovely cafes, you can go on a coffee tour where you can learn about every step of the coffee plant – from bean to cup.
San Pedro is a hub for travellers who want to take Spanish classes. We think Lake Atitlan is easily nice enough to spend an extended time while you brush up on your language skills.
During our research for this Lake Atitlan blogpost, we found this Lake Atitlan Villages Tour on ATV with amazing ratings and we just had to share it with you.
Ati Divers, the only dive centre on Lake Atitlan, is located in Santa Cruz at La Iguana Perdida. We did a scuba dive to Agua Caliente, volcanic hot vents at the bottom of the lake, and can fully recommend it.
Speaking of Lake Atitlan hot springs: If you want to visit some without diving to the bottom of the lake, how about Los Termales in San Pedro? Here, you can relax in hot tubs filled with thermal water – if you want more, you can also get a massage.
Lake Atitlan is not really a foodie destination. You’ll have a larger selection in the bigger and more touristy towns of Panajachel, San Pedro, and San Marcos. In smaller places like Santa Cruz, you’ll eat most of your meals in your accommodation. Overall, we found a lovely selection of vegetarian and vegan food around the lake. Here are some of our favourites:
Panajachel
San Pedro:
San Marcos
Note that transport around Lake Atitlan pretty much shuts down after sunset and you’re mostly stuck where you are.
If you’re looking for nightlife, San Pedro and Panajachel are the places to go.
In Panajachel, you can find loads of bars as well as two clubs: El Aleph and Element.
In San Pedro, backpacker culture is alive and kicking. It’s the perfect place for a bar crawl. Popular spots are The Alegre Pub and Sublime. We liked also liked 420 Reggae Bar.
Depending on your time, we recommend to spend at least 2 to 4 days in Lake Atitlan. Personally, we spent 6 days at the lake, but you can spend a lot longer if you ask us. Many travellers also take Spanish lessons here because Lake Atitlan is such a nice base.
Here’s our Lake Atitlan itinerary:
Because we think Lake Atitlan is must visit place even if you only have the shortest amount of time, here’s a day trip option from Antigua:
The best climate to visit Lake Atitlan is the dry season from November to May. The wet season from May to October can have the advantage of fewer people and lower prices.
We visited Lake Atitlan in March and had perfect weather.
In general, Lake Atitlan is very safe. Even the party scene in San Pedro seems to be safe at night.
Watch out for pickpockets when you’re visiting a crowded market.
The biggest supermarkets like Despensa Familia can be found in Panajachel. In San Pedro, we used the local market for grocery shopping. There are some small shops in San Marcos.
You will find plenty of ATMs in Panajachel and San Pedro. There seems to be one in San Marcos, Santa Cruz, and Santiago but we would not rely on them.
We had a good internet connection everywhere we went in Lake Atitlan. There are accommodations with fibre glass connection if good WiFi is a priority for you! The Selina in Panajachel is a great option for digital nomads.
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