Backpack one week in Bosnia and Herzegovina and visit Mostar, Jajce, and Sarajevo without a car!
Backpacking in Bosnia and Herzegovina, this country completely blew us away with its natural beauty, cultural heritage, and delicious food.
Our one week Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary with public transport forms a triangle making it easy to start at either of the the three endpoints:
Like all of our travel itineraries, it is fast-paced and has no fluff bringing you to all the highlights as well as some hidden gems.
While most tourist seems to rent a car, it is absolutely possible to go backpacking in Bosnia and Herzegovina without a car. Buses between the main destinations run frequently and at an affordable price. You can check busticket4.me and getbybus.com for schedules and if you want to buy online tickets – just make absolutely sure that you print them!
You can check train schedules at zfbh.ba.
Destinations without public transport like the Kravice Waterfalls can be conveniently reached by tour.
Let’s assume you start your Bosnia itinerary in the capital Sarajevo which has a lot of international bus and flight connections.
The train is the most scenic way to go from Sarajevo to Mostar. Currently, there are two trains per day, one in the morning and one in the evening. They take around 2 hours and cost around 7€.
Buses from Sarajevo to Mostar run more often. On the downside, they take a bit longer and cost a bit more.
If you have the energy, you can break up the journey in Konjic. Like Mostar, the town is located on the banks of the Neretva River and features an Ottoman bridge – with the bonus of much fewer tourists. In addition to the Ottoman old town, Konjic is famous for Titos Bunker as well as rafting on the Neretva River.
We stayed at Apartments Carina (I feel like as a Carina I had to). The location is crazy good – super close to the bus station and within easy walking distance to the city centre. Value for money was simply amazing.
Mostar is a small city so one day is enough to explore the highlights.
If you know us, you know that we are suckers for free walking tours and we loved the one by Sheva.
Of course, the highlight of Mostar is the Ottoman Bridge. We suggest relaxing in one of the plenty cafes view a bridge view with a traditional Bosnian coffee and wait for a bridge diver to jump.
Other great things to do in Mostar are
The three undisputed highlights of the Mostar area are:
While you can reach all of them with public transport (and taxis), you absolutely cannot do it in one day. Recently, we became huge fans of tours to save a lot of time. The Discover Herzegovina Tour was our favourite tour of this trip.
Additionally to the three highlights, you’ll get a panoramic view of Mostar from the Mostar Skywalk and visit Buna Channel which we thought to be unexpectedly cool.
There is one direct bus from Mostar to Jajce. It leaves at 12:25 p.m., takes around 5 hours, and costs around 15€. We took it and have 0 complaints.
We stayed at MIMA and can 100% recommend it. The location is almost at the fortress (be prepared to walk up some stairs) and the hospitality of the owners is amazing.
Jajce has two highlights:
Other nice things to do in Jajce are:
Do not miss the watermills when you’re in Jajce! The old wooden watermills are located between Large and Small Pliva Lakes.
If you don’t have a car, you have two options to get to the watermills:
We opted for walking. The walk is a bit more than 1 hour each way. Walking has the advantage that you can stop at some nice places along the way like Konoba Slapovi and Lover’s Bridge. Lovers Bridge sounds unassuming but the bridge across the waterfall was pretty cool.
The watermills themselves are super picturesque and absolutely worth a visit.
Direct buses from Jajce to Sarajevo run in the morning and in the evening. The ride takes less than 4 hours and costs less than 20€.
If you have the energy, you can break the bus journey up in Travnik. Travnik is one of the oldest towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The highlights of Travnik are
We stayed at Hostel Vagabond. The location and the value for money were amazing!
Honestly, Sarajevo was such a pleasant surprise for us that we wonder why not more people go for a European city break…
Like everywhere we go, we like to start with a free walking tour and we thoroughly enjoyed the one by Meet Bosnia.
Other things we enjoyed doing in Sarajevo are:
Today is the day you’ll learn more about former Yugoslavia. One of the best places to do so is the Sarajevo War Tunnel or Tunnel of Hope. While you can reach it by taxi or a combination of public transport and walking, the easiest and most time-efficient way to visit is a guided tour. We opted for the Fall of Yugoslavia Tour by Meet Bosnia because we went on their free walking tour and enjoyed it a lot. The tour is the most convenient way to visit three major sights:
As this is a half-day tour, you have time to learn more about the history of former Yugoslavia in the afternoon. We suggest that you visit the Gallery 11/07/95. This art gallery is dedicated to preserving the memory of the Srebrenica genocide.
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